Puglia's Beautiful Coast and Cities

In the heart of Old Lecce, La Fiermontina is an urban resort built around a 17th century private home known for its Baroque architecture and storied past. There are 16 unique suites and guestrooms, simply and comfortably designed with subtle modern touches letting the original features take precedent. The historic property is scattered with selections from the owner’s personal art collection, including pieces by Le Corbusier, Charlotte Perriand and Tobia Scarpa, with striking sculptures out in the garden along with olive trees, a swimming pool and striking terrace restaurant serving a modern take on traditional Pugliese cuisine. Explore the wonderful Old Town outside or discover the surrounding countryside on cycling and hiking trips, horse rides, sailing excursions and wine and olive oil experiences.

The Palazzo Margherita, built in 1892 in the hilltop town of Bernalda, is a true 19th century palazzo. The town was the birthplace and home to Agostino Coppola, Francis Ford Coppola’s grandfather, who set about restoring the grand building into a small, luxurious Italian boutique hotel so that he could introduce visitors to this stunning and still undiscovered region. The palazzo has been completely restored with the help of acclaimed French designer Jacques Grange, creating an authentically Italian experience that ushers guests into a private world of sheer comfort, surrounded by baroque gardens and a courtyard, all just steps from a small, bustling town where tourists are a rarity and welcomed as friends. Restored frescos, original marble floors and countless historic details retain their patina and compliment tasteful new additions such as a cinema and swimming pool. There are just nine unique suites, including one designed Sofia Coppola with a spacious bathroom with a hammam and chromatherapy shower, while others enjoy terraces, balconies or doors opening into the gardens. All are spacious with a full range of modern amenities – such as a gratis bar and modern entertainment system with a digital movie collection specializing in Italian Cinema. While there is no formal restaurant here, guests can dine at the eat-in kitchen, in the courtyard, garden or in any of the bars. Naturally, food is locally sourced, simply and incredible. There’s also the Cinecittà Bar, a traditional café and pizzeria that spills out onto Bernalda’s main street and looks onto the town square. There’s plenty to do here, whether borrowing a bike to explore the local area, taking culinary classes or taking the complimentary shuttle to the Palazzo Margherita’s private beach club on the cobalt-blue shores of the Ionian Sea. Local historic sites abound, wine tastings are a delight and visits to local artisans can be arranged.

Buried deep into the oldest part of the Sassi is the Sextantio Le Grotte della Civita, an ancient cave dwelling that has been turned into a wonderfully atmospheric boutique hotel. Little was changed during the renovation of the caves and the original shape and materials remain intact. All 18 rooms feature stone floors and walls, each one a different shape depending on the natural curves of the rock. Underfloor heating keeps them cosy in winter while the thick walls ensure they are cool in the hot Italian summers. Decor is simple so as not to detract from the natural features of the cave; crisp white linen, hand-made pottery and the flicker of candles is all they need to shine. Some of the rooms feature freestanding bath tubs and old troughs that have been turned into sinks. Breakfast is served in a de-consecrated church from the 13th century and the room is available for private dinners. A chef will prepare a selection of local dishes in this magical setting lit solely by candles. Food all over Italy is a matter of national pride, and produce is sourced from local organic farms. There is an outdoor courtyard and guests can enjoy a coffee or glass of wine while looking out over the dramatic gorge. When you want to simply relax and unwind, enjoy a spa treatment in the privacy of your own room. You are ideally placed to explore the city, with the Murgia Park and its rock-hewn churches just opposite the hotel.